Hecklinger, Charles
"The "Keystone" jacket and dress cutter" by Charles Hecklinger is a technical manual written in the late 19th century. It teaches a self-instruction system for measuring, drafting, and tailoring women’s garments, using precise formulas, diagrams, and adjustments for different figures and styles. The focus is on pattern construction for waists, jackets, sleeves, skirts, collars, and related pieces, aimed at reliable fit and professional finish.The opening of the manual states the author’s goal to provide the simplest, most accurate, and most comprehensive systems for ladies’ tailoring, then methodically explains measurement technique (elastic waist belt, neck point, blade measure, height under arm, and tape-and-square usage). It builds a foundational waist draft with numbered diagrams and clear arithmetic (fractions of breast and blade measures) and shows how to regulate darts, seams, and hip room, then adapts the base to large, stout, erect, and stooping forms. From there it progresses through step-by-step drafts for Eton and Bolero jackets, cutaways, covert and frock coats, riding jackets, shirt waists, and a full range of sleeves (plain, altered seams, large heads, very full), followed by vests, numerous collar types, capes, and an ulster. It concludes this opening section with detailed drafting for dress skirts (bell, umbrella, full dress), a riding skirt, and even women’s trousers and breeches, all presented as precise, self-instructing patterns. (This is an automatically…
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